THE RED LIP

Paul & Joe have a key floral theme running through out their product range. I feel it is important to incorporate this within the designing of my looks. For me painting is a great way for me to design me ideas before the final shoot. The enfisis needs to focus on a bold lip for this image. In order to do this the rest of the makeup needs to be kept clean and simple. I will use the techniques practiced in some of my collaborative shoots in order to accomplish this. Paul & Joe is quite a natural brand so it is important the makeup still looks natural with a crisp red pop of colour in the lip.  

To enhance and compliment the lip colour I want to use flowers within the styling ellement of the shoot to add colour and dynamic, as well as to link back to the floral theme I have chosen for my looks.

I feel confident in creating a perfect red lip after using it so much over the past couple of months on shoots. Although I still want to experiment with the different tones of pink and red used in order to create the perfect look for the shoot.

FINAL LOOKS

Initial Development

BOLD LIP

NATURAL SKIN

EYE LINER & LASHES

SMOKEY EYES

METALLIC

SPORTS LUX

FMP with Emily Ball

I was asked by the model in the previous plastic shoot if I would be able to help her out on a shoot for her final major project. She was creating a sports lux themed shoot with moody blue lighting. I was happy to help as this was the perfect chance for me to practice more key skills from this unit. Emily wanted to makeup to be clean and sharp. I created an iconic black winged eye liner contrasting against a bold red lip. To carry on the dynamic of the look i pulled the hair back into a high pony. 

PLASTIC SHOOT

With Briony O'Connell

FMP

I had another opportunity to practice my beauty makeup skills before developing my own final looks. This time I was working with a 3rd year fashion photography student, Briony. Originally her idea involved making the skin look completely plastic. After practicing this at home using a silica face mask we decided it would be better to use plastic within the styling of the shoot instead. Briony has previously already done this shoot with someone else using white makeup which did not work. I wanted to keep the look very clean and fresh and focus on making the skin look as flawless as possible. 

PLAITING

Hair practical with Lottie

DUTCH PLAIT

The dutch plait is in other words an inside out french plait. Instead of the plait sitting tightly against the scalp the plait is reversed so it is on the top of the hair. 

- Take 3 even sections 

- Go under the middle section with the right piece of hair

- Take left section under the middle section and plait 

- Repeat until all hair is plaited

- Secure with a hair band

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 WATERFALL PLAIT

- Take a square section at the top of the forehead 

- Plait as normal backwards

- Take middle section of the plait and drop 

- Pick up a new piece of hair to add in

- Repeat until plait goes all the way round the head

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EXPERIMENTAL PLAIT

SHAPE & SILHOUETTE

Hair practical with Lottie

- Section the hair at the crown all the way around, plait or tie underneath section out of the way.

- Crimp at the root of all the top section to add volume. Leave rest of the hair smooth. This will help to define and lift the hair (back combing can fall flat.)

- Leave section at the front of the head out the cover the crimp.

- Straighten this section to smooth out any natural waves & back comb to close any gaps.

- Back comb crimped sections from underneath to create structure, then bring the smooth section over the top of the hair. 

- Use dressing out comb to form shape genitally.

- Take half of the bottom section and comb. Bring over, slightly off center and grip.

- Twist and roll left side in making sure it is central. Secure with fine pins.

- Spray hairspray onto hands and use dressing comb to adjust shape and close gaps. This will secure fly aways and smooth everything out.

50's UP-DO
STYLE WITH VOLUME

Beauty Hair Practical

During our 2nd practical with Lottie we built on the voluminous technique we used in the previous session. 50's hair styling can be applied within beauty editorial and also used for special occasions like weddings or for proms.



The 1950s was a decade known for experimentation with new styles and culture. Following World War II and the austerity years of the post-war period, the 1950s were a time of comparative prosperity, which influenced fashion and the concept of glamour. Hairstylists invented new hairstyles for the wealthy. French hair stylist's took their hair fashion to Hollywood where to glamorous movie stars were introduced to this innovative way of styling.

TECHNIQUE

- Prepping the hair makes styling easier

- After rollers are cooled, removing without pulling the hair

- Pin excess hair up, focus on the tonged sections at the bottom of the head

- Comb sections together, back comb, roll and pin

- Repeat on other side, leaving a gap to allow the structure to be secured

- Pin middle together and close gaps at the side using fixing pins

- Next start with bottom roll of brick work

- Use back combing to soften

- Create soft large pin curls (rose shape) pinning half way down hair so it is not to tight against the head

- Use finishing pins to secure loose hair

- Continue process until all hair is pinned

- Cover gaps with front sections of hair to prevent harsh lines

- Allow top piece of hair to flow backwards

- Use a dressing out comb to close gaps

I have a long way to go with polishing my hair skills up. The preparation of the hair was really successful although I did not achieve to right rose shapes with the hair when creating the pin curls which make up the most part of the style.

SMOKEY EYES
Eye shapes

With Yvonne Gold

ACCESSORIZING THE HAIR

Using crimping or scrunching to create a style

Hair nets can help hold styles into place, match clients hair to the net. These are available at most pharmacy's.

VASELINE - Can be used to add gems to the hair

* To remove grease based products use shampoo

STYLING

- Scrunch hair to add texture and volume

- Leave small sections out by the ears (square sections)

- Secure roll using grips

- Feed through any fabric at this stage if using a scarf

- Pull & tease hair outwards to create the shape

- Twist sides around and secure

CREATING TEXTURE

Adding Lift

Beauty Hair Practical

CRIMPING

Crimping can add volume to the hair which can be used to create a structured style that holds its shape.

- Crimp middle section of the hair upwards to the root

- Back comb genitally using a tail comb

- Back combing creates a scaffold effect which can then have hair layered over the top, hiding the crimp

- When crimping ensure hair is sectioned properly to prevent drag

- Take small sections & lift hair upwards, placing comb under to prevent burning

DIFFUSING

Use mouse and sea salt

- Spritz hair with water so it is 10% wet, this will allow the structure of the hair to be changed

- Add a small amount of mouse to the mid lengths and ends

- The diffuser allows air flow in a large area, creating less damage

- Scrunch using hands to assist waves

- Ensure hair is fully dry 

- If using sea salt add shine spray as product can make the hair look dull

(salt can strip goodness from the hair)

MIRIJANA VASOVIC

MASTER CLASSES

Mirijana Vasovic, assistant of Val Garland has worked at the very top of the fashion industry, previously working for MAC artist relations has so much knowledge to offer. Through 3 sessions with her I learnt so many different skills which will be essential to me through out my future career. She spoke frankly about the industry and was a breath of fresh air encouraging us and giving us one to one feedback through out the sessions on the practice we were doing. 

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PERFECT LIPS

Mirijana made it clear that there is always a mood in makeup. When creating a lip look it is essential to consider the shape of the lip and what that shape portrays to an audience. The shape is what creates the dynamic of a character. 

In our first session Marijana demonstarated how to create the perfect lip quickly! Something many of us struggle to perfect she showed us simple steps to follow when under pressure. Using blue Mac mixing medium on the lips to create a bold matte lip that is even harder to perfect than a red lip. She started by concealing the lip to create a clean canvas and blocking out any of the natural lip colour. Using a large flat round edge brush she was able to create a soft curve to the cupids bow and a sharp line across the rest of the lip. 

She next taught us how to experiment with product to create a beautiful smokey eye using products like a lip liner and gloss on the lids. As makeup students we tend to stick to the label of a product rather than treating out products as an artist's palette. She looks a different products as a texture and a shade rather than a lipstick or eye shadow.


My attempt 'perfect lips'

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FLAWLESS SKIN & NATURAL BROWS

During our second session Mirijana went through how to create a flawless fresh base. She taught us about the importance of prepping the skin. This is the most important stage to a makeup look and the most time should be focused on it.

 She started by cleansing the skin using Bioderma, a product I have recently discovered myself which is really gentle on the skin and removes all makeup residue without drying the skin. She next massaged a non greasy moisturizer into the skin using her finger tips to really work the product into the skin and neck. Instantly this brings the blood to the surface of the skin giving instant radiance and bringing life into the skin. After working the product into the skin she then applied a thin layer of face and body foundation by Mac across the complexion. This foundation is perfect for photography and catwalk, with no SPF it will not cause a white cast across the face and is really build-able and blend-able. She told us about a little trick she uses if she needs a higher coverage on a model, which is to warm the product in the palm to create a thicker consistency to the foundation. 

Next she gave us a demonstration on how to create a naturally defined brow that doesn't look harsh or out of place. Using cool toned powder products with a small pointed brush to imitate individual hairs creates a natural finish to the brow. Brushing the brows up with a spooly also helps to keep the brow looking neat and tidy.

We were also challenged to produce a perfect red lip in 4 minutes, putting what we were taught in our previous session with her to practice.

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GRAPHIC LINER

Our last session with Mirijana was all about creating perfect graphic eye liner. Something I have a huge passion for! Using a small pointed brush she taught us about how to use angles to suit everybody's eye. Taking the line from the lower lash line outwards to carry on the line. 

Mirijana taught us how to create an illusion using liner. Creating a triangle shape when the eye is shut that looks like a normal winged liner when the eye is open. To create this it was essential to find the correct position on the eye inside the crease in order to allow the line to flow when the eye is open. 

The second liner was crisp and elongated. She taught us of the importance of cleaning lines. Often when using liner the line created is not completing perfect. To crisp up the line she used a hard angled brush with a small amount of Bioderma to make the line perfectly straight. This works better than using a cotton bud because the brush is at a completely straight angle rather than being a fluffy ball.

My attempts at graphic liner

BAUHAUS SHOOT

With fashion photographer Chloe

Working with another Fashion Photography student Chloe with the same Bauhaus theme allowed me to create a makeup look with a completely different angel. Originally the photographer wanted a grid shape painted across the face with the lips blocked out in blue. I did not think this would look polished and it would clash against the garments she had brought to style the shoot. We decided on a sharp graphic liner look inspired by Pat Mcgrath. This would be complimented by a bold lip.

Preview images from the shoot

Making the skill flawless was a key part of this look. I used Illamasqua skin base to create an even skin tone. On top I used Mac Harmony blush to contour the face as well as TheBalm highlighter on the top of the cheek bones. 

Working with Afro hair was definitely a huge challenge for me as I has never been taught how best to style it. Naturally the models hair was in tight spiral curls. The photographer wanted her hair to be poker straight, slicked up into a high ponytail with different coloured ribbon around the base. I found it difficult to smooth the hair out and this is something I need to practice a lot as well as learn what the best products would be to keep in my kit in order to style Afro hair. 

Eye liner has become one of my strongest skills within makeup, I wear it everyday myself and also use it on a lot of my makeup clients at work for part makeup. It is such a key staple and I am so happy I feel confident with the application of perfect liner. 
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LOOK TWO

BAUHAUS

COLLABORATION

with Katie Player

During this project I am taking every opportunity to collaborate with as many people as I can. Although this theme doesn't fit in with my brand it was a great opportunity to practice some of the new skills in beauty makeup I have learnt over the past month.

Katie the photographer I was working with sent me a variety of different images based on the Bauhaus art movement found in 1920's German. We often associate  white walls, clean lines and the use of glass and concrete as modern and contemporary ideas. And they are, except that those same ideas have been around for nearly a century now thanks to the unique influence of the Bauhaus school of art and architecture. 

Together we produced a mood board to inspire the makeup I would create on the day. Katie wanted to produce a series of images as part of a fashion supplement featuring different clothing and jewelry.  The makeup I created needed to be versatile as it would be kept the same across all the clothing changes. Using primary colours was a key aspect of the style. 

Creating a clean skin was essential to making the colours pop around the eyes and lips. Using tape I was able to create sharp lines around the eyes, inspired by Pat Mcgrath's makeup look for Dior's fall couture collection in 2010. She used sharp lines and contrasting colours to create beautiful and clean makeup.

Over all I was really happy with the look produced for this shoot and the feedback from the photographer was great! I was able to use the skills learnt in order to create a flawless natural finish to the skin. I also used the techniques taught to create a perfect red lip. I feel my makeup is becoming more refined. 

The hair was kept very simple swept off the face into a high pony tail I made sure it was sleek and perfectly central. Beauty hair doesn't look very complex but I have learnt the key to creating a perfect finish is to prep the hair correctly. To create this hair look I started by running styling oil through the lengths of the hair the to achieve a poker straight finish I ran GHD's through before putting the hair into a ponytail.